Why Utility wear is a Timeless wardrobe must-have

Here at Timeless, we’re all about the place where the stylish meets the practical. Utility wear has been a growing trend for some months now, and we’re happy to say it’s here to stay. Ahead of our next drop, we thought we’d take a look at where the trend came from.

Utility wear has its origins in 1940s Britain, when materials like wool and leather were rationed. It was low cost, high quality clothing sold with a price cap, limiting profits for makers and instead focusing on an efficiency of design that would work for anyone who wore it. Cargo pants had been around for a few years at this point, having been designed in England for soldiers towards the start of the war. The cargos we know and love today, however, are inspired by the American version of these designs which featured more pockets and a less tailored silhouette. The design was improved upon for years, coming to a head during the Vietnam war when soldiers had to carry more equipment than ever before, leading to the variations we see today with  4-6 pockets. Around this time, leg ties were also added to tie around the top of boots to stop debris from coming in. These ties are often seen on cargos today, purely for aesthetic purposes, fitting into the macro trend of highly textured and layered outfits complete with strings and bows that we’ve seen recently. 

So how did utility wear enter the high fashion world? Following on from her use of the material for bags in the 80s, Muccia Prada explained how in 1994 “Suddenly, nylon started to look more intriguing to me than couture fabrics.” This started a buzz which got young people interested in fashion that was not only beautiful but practical; the nylon Prada was using was the same waterproof material used for tents by the Italian army. The launch of the Prada Sport line in 1998 also introduced gore-tex, cementing the utility trend as one to watch.

The 90s were characterised by a spirit for rebellion against big corporations. Skater culture, which favoured baggy silhouettes and the practicality of multiple pockets, made the cargo pant a staple of 90s fashion. They were also popular amongst Hip Hop artists, many of whom were not supported by major record labels and so created their own Independent labels. In turn, they also turned to new, smaller brands such as Ecko for their clothes, who were experimenting with practical, baggy styles.

One of the key items from the Utility trend, which plays upon the balance of practicality and feminine expression, is the cargo skirt. Popularised by 90s fashion icons, the cargo skirt represented strength in a time when women were finally taking their power back after a lifetime of being taken advantage of. Destiny’s Child’s Survivor era was characterised by these skirts, and TLC played on the look with gorgeous Western styling.

Today, the cargo skirt is back and more popular than ever. An early reinterpretation of the trend was seen on the 2019 Prada runway, which used the same materials as in the original 90s style. These silhouettes were closer to pencil skirts than the baggier style popular in 2023. During covid, there was a massive rise in DIY aesthetics as people were stuck in their home with nothing to do, and  people made their own cargo skirts from old cargo pants. This is a fun idea to revamp your wardrobe, and it fits into a rising interest not only in sustainability, but also in the need for a bit more imagination needed when the cost of living crisis prevents us from buying what we want when we want. This is paired with a desire for efficient and high quality clothing that won’t need replacing after a few wears, much like its 1940s origins. 

Utility wear is primarily found in Earth tones, which have been trending for a few years now. Brands such as Patagonia are moving away from synthetic dyes and instead using natural hues which are less vibrant. 

Although this is partly due to the way that decades have always had colour stories, for example the garish colours of the maximalistic 80s, there may be some deeper reason for these more neutral hues to be in vogue. With the overstimulation of TikTok, and the disconnection people feel as a result of spending more time online than with people, the return to an earthy palette may well signify people’s desire to feel calm and grounded. Furthermore, with the trend cycle speeding up to the point where it has almost imploded within itself, there has been a recent emphasis on instead building a capsule wardrobe which represents your personal style; neutral colours and earth tones will go with anything and can be reconfigured to fit all sorts of styles. 

Miss Bella Hadid has of course been spotted countless times in both cargo skirts and pants (including a camo midi skirt bought from us!), with her signature sporty spin in the styling. Other utility items we love include cropped military jackets (we have a few by Diesel), dresses that give silhouette, and practical bags, which we think all the girlies who can currently only fit a pack of gum in their mini baguettes will be grateful for. The clean girl aesthetic may have been cute, but can you really keep up the illusion of perfect minimalism for more than a season?

By Laura Jennings